Paella At Paolo’s

Friday 23rd. And we’re off to a flying start; the news is that tonight’s gig has been cancelled, and even though I’m disappointed, as with many things in life that don’t work out as planned, every problem comes with a gift in its hand. In this instance the gift is a little more time to rest after yesterday’s lengthy day and late night. 

The Duomo.

The late night was due to an eagerness on my part to see Giulia’s band–Underfloor–perform. I’d been reliably informed that the gig was to begin at 10 p.m. - “late enough”, I hear you say, and if I have misheard you, or just imagined that I heard you, I’ll tell you, that’s late enough. So, after a beautiful dinner of Paella at Paolo’s I was transported to a rather remote and unpopulated industrial estate that just happened to have a night club in the middle of it. 

Once there, I was met by friends Michele (pronounced Mick-el-e) and Dorothea, and was informed that the band would be on stage in ten minutes. Now, if you’ve spent any amount of time in Italy you will know that ‘ten minutes’ quite possibly will not relate too closely to the passage of time that’s normally associated with the period or timespan of ten minutes as one often regards it to be. Here was an occasion that did not contradict this implied stereotype.

The joys of Italian cuisine and good company.
Left to right: Paolo, Santino, Giulia, me, Michele.  

When the band did take to the stage - at 11:30 - they impressed with some very solid progressive rock, and good musicianship and energy all round from each of the members: Guido, Alessandro, Lorenzo and Giulia.  

The Ponte Vecchio at night.

On to Friday, and If I’m going to suggest that the Italian approach to timekeeping is not one of the more skilful, I’d also have to say that they make up for it in so many other ways that would put into question even the smallest preoccupation with such matters. I think the most hardened character would struggle not to be moved on the deepest level by the qualities of passion, generosity, warmth and the sheer pride in one’s own culture that is so much a natural part of their psyche. As a guest in such company, and when combined with the aesthetic impact on the senses that such history can have as it comes at you from all angles, for me these are rich moments that somehow make sense of my time on this planet.

Beautiful Tuscany.

The Mortal Plain, Seat 14F.

Thursday, another ridiculously early start, and again no need for an alarm - with the customary insomnia on this occasion serving a constructive purpose, as I wake first at 2 a.m. and then 3:44; perfect timing. The train left Preston right on time at 05:12 bound for Manchester airport. 

Now I’m back in the air, a space that feels more like home by the day; this is a good place to be, in fact this seat on the plane is a good one to be sat in. There are times when it pays not to do the online seat selection, etc., as I was fortuitously allocated a window seat with extra leg room by the lady at the checkin, and not only that, but quite unusually they let me carry my guitar to the gate, and they even tried to find a space in the passenger cabin for it. 

So it’s back to Italy, and I’m trying to recall the time of my last visit; it was some years ago. Firenze, a regular destination for me once-upon-a-time, was usually visited courtesy of my dear, dear friend Ernesto de Pascale when he was on the other type of plain, the mortal one. A larger than life, and beautiful man, full of fascination, curiosity, ideas and creativity. A journalist, promoter, producer, radio and television presenter, songwriter and musician; I guess he never stopped, which could well have had something to do with why he’s not here with us now. 

Ernesto de Pascale

Ernesto would get me work at festivals, and at venues like the Teatro del Sale, although I’d have to say, there really isn’t another venue like the Teatro del Sale. A magnificent Renaissance style building in the heart of old Florence, it is owned and operated by master chef Fabio Picchi and wife Maria as a buffet style eating establishment, serving medieval Tuscan food. In the evenings the food is cleared away at 9 p.m., the customers turn their seats to face the stage, and the entertainment begins. 

Teatro del Sale.

 In 2006 I played five straight nights there, Tuesday till Saturday, with the final show broadcast live on Ernesto’s own radio show across Italy. Three of those nights were recorded and video’d, and now they constitute my CD and DVD: Live in Florence.

Fabio Picchi

Today I arrive at Pisa at 11:55, to be met by Paolo, the very person who sent me the text message three years back telling me of the massive stroke Ernesto had just suffered. He passed away ten minutes into his 53rd Birthday.

I wish I were playing the Teatro del Sale this time, but alas, it is not to be; they have a stage production taking place all week. The shows I do have are: Fiorno Sull’Arno, Firenze (Friday), Pianeta Melos, Pistoia (Saturday), Full Music, Firenze (Monday), and The Sarzana Acoustic Guitar Meeting (Wednesday).